Drafting and measuring garments



UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

CHARLES LUCAS, OF CHARLOTTESVILLE, VIRGINIA.

DRAFTING AND MEASURING- GARMENTS.

Specification of Letters Patent No. 5,685, dated June 13, 1848.

To all wiz-0791, t may concern.'

Be it known that I, CHARLES LUCAS, of Charlottesville in the county ofAlbemarle and State of Virginia, have invented a new and usefulImprovement in the art of measuring and drafting garments; and I dohereby declare that the following is a full and exact descriptionthereof, reference being had to the annexed drawings, making part ofthis specification.

The sheet of drawings is divided into four principal divisions, orgroups of diagrams and appended thereto, is a figure illustrating theapplication o-f the measure.

Figure 1 is the group of coat diagrams in which A is the breast or frontof a coat, B the back, C the skirt of a dress and D the skirt of a frockcoat and E the sleeve. Fig. 2 is the group of vest diagrams of which Fis the front and G the back. Fig. 3 is a diagram for pantaloons theblack lines representing the front and the dotted lines the backthereof. Fig. 4L is a group of diagrams for ladies habits-or dresses ofwhich I is the front and J the back of the bodice. K is the sleeve. Fig.5 is a view of the measure applied to a person for the purpose ofobtaining the necessary dimensions preparatory to cutting a coat. Fig. 6is the meas ure.

The nature of my invention consists in a method of making and using alseries of diagrams or patterns, corresponding in size and shape with theseveral elementary parts of which garments are composed-in the manner offorming scales upon the said diagrams, graduating the same, and applyingto said graduation a system o-f notation by means of which said diagramsmay be adapted to the drafting of garments of all sizes within thelimits of the graduated scales aforesaidand in applying a graduatedflexible adjustable measure for the purpose of obtaining the necessarydata to determine the size and proportions of the several parts ofgarments by means of the diagrams aforesaid, the several scales of themeasure having a determinate relation to the corresponding scales on thediagrams.

I deem it unnecessary to describe particularly the mode of constructingall the diagrams of the different part-s of a suit of clothes. I will,however, give by way of example a description of the mode ofconstructing one diagram which will illustrate the general principle soclearly and fully that any person skilled in the business of tailoringwould by studying it carefully be able without difficulty to apply it soas to construct all the rest. front or breast of a coat as the subjectof illustration. I commence by drafting upon cloth or other suitablematerial a pattern A, Fig. 1 represented by the black lines, of agarment of the smallest size, of symmetrical proportions and fashionableform; outside of the pattern A thus laid down and preserving the samerelative form and position I draft a second plan a', a, ci, a, of largersize represented by the dotted lines, I then con` nect the two patternsby lines drawn from the principal points of the small to thecorresponding points of the larger, allowing t-he lines to extendindefinitely beyond the largest, but preserving the same directionwithout as they do between the patterns. These lines, between thepatterns, I divide into any given number of equal parts, in the vpresentinstance I have divided them into eighteen, and extended the graduationbeyond the larger pattern up to thirty one; to each of these divisions Iaiix a distinct sign or symbol beginning upon the outline of the patternA with A', for the symbol of the first division of the scales, B2, forthe symbol o-f the second division, and so proceeding to and beyond theoutline of the larger pattern marking the divisions in alphabetical andnumerical order as I progress. These lines thus divided and marked attheir points of division, I denominate scales, to each of these scales Iaflix a symbol by which it is distinguished from the other scales ofSuch of the scales in the` the same diagram. same diagram as correspondto the same scale of the measure I associate together into a group orclass and each class thus formed I designate by a number.

In diagram A, Fig. 1, there are four groups or classes of scalesnumbered '4, 5, 6, and 7 respectively. Class 4l embraces scales D Nos.1, Q, 3, f1, 5, and G and the symbol of size for this class is to befound on scale D of the measure. Class 5 is composed of scales E Nos. 1and 2 and the symbol of size for this class is taken from scale E of themeasure. Class 6 is composed of scale F, and the symbol of size for thisclass is taken from scale F of the measure when it is used to obtain thedimensions around the breast. Class 7 embraces scales G Nos. 1 and 2 andthe symbol of size for this class is taken from scale F of the measurewhen it is used to obtain the circumference of the Waist'.

'other suitable material combined partly in a iXed and in partadjustable manner, there being a piece of sufficient length and in theproper place to take the measure of every part of the person of Which itis deemed necessary to obtain the dimensions, or else a movable pieceWhich by being adjusted Will serve to take the dimensions of severaladjacent parts. The different parts of the measure having scalesgraduated upon them equivalent to the corresponding classes of scales onthe diagrams the symbols representing the several divisions of thescales being the same on the diagrams and on the measure. -Scale A givesthe length of the back. -Scale B givest-he length of the skirt. Scale Cgives the measure from the middle of the back to the shoulder joint. -Dgives the circumference of the arm.- E'gives the measurey from the neckjoint (the upper surface of the superior dorsal vertebrae) obliquelyacross the back, under the arm, across the breast and over the shoulderto the point of starting. F gives the circumference around the breast,around t-he Waistand around the hips. G gives the lengt-h from theshoulder to the elbow. H gives the length from the elbow to the Wrist. Igives the measure from the thigh joint to the knee. K gives thecircumference of the thigh. The measures for a coat are obtained asfollows, upon rfthe back of the person being measured and over the neckjoint isplaced that part of the measure marked the length of the backtaken down the middle to the natural Waist upon scale vA is then noted,next, the circumference of thechest at the largest part is taken uponscale F, and also noted, if both the dimensions so taken are representedupon their respective scales by the same symbol, the length around thechest Will be just twice Athe length of the back, and the form of suchperson is said to be symmetricalv and the symbol thus found is calledthe index of measure and obviates the necessity for taking any fartherdimensions, because it will 4indicate accurately upon the diagrams theproper form and size correspond With the symbol for the length of thenatural Waist must be noted and in applying the measures to the diagramand cloth care must be taken to puncture the cloth through the scale inthe several classes at the points represented by the proper symbol theindex symbol being in this case the proper measure of such parts only asare symmetrical.

Having described the application of the measure to the human body so asto obtain its dimensions I Will novv give the indexes for its severalscales which point out their corresponding classes of scales on thediagram. The dimensions indicated by scale A have their correspondingsizes and symbols on those scales of the several diagrams embraced inthe classes numbered, l. mensions given by B correspond to class 2,those dimensions given by C, D, E, F, b, FW, G, H, I, O, and Krespectively correspond to the classes on the diagrams numbered 3, 4, 5,6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11, Fb being the measure around the breast and FWaround the Waist. f i

The mode of applying .a diagram so as to enable the operator. toA draftWithr accuracy the part of the garment to v:which it corresponds,preparatory to cutting, is as follows: The diagram islaid upon the clothor other material to be cut, the symbols` of size ha-ving beenascertained bythe method above described,- the corresponding symbols onthe several classes of scales on the diagram are found, and a hole ispunctured through those scales. and the'cloth at those points ofdivision indicated by the symbols of measure aforesaid, the diagram isthen removed and the punctures in the cloth `joined by chalk lines, aperfect draft of the partrequired to be `cut being thus completed.Instead of puncturing the scales at theV points of di-A visionYindicated by the symbols let open spaces be made like those representedat qu Fig.. 1 through which the cloth can be marked at once, moreaccurately and with greater convenience. i i' s I do not claim the useof perforated patterns or diagrams ory of combined graduatedilexiblemeasures for the purpose of drafting and measuring for garments;but j That I do claim as my invention and desire to secure by LettersPatent is- The employment of a sheet of patterns or diagrams, with theirscales and system of graduation and not-ation, such` as are hereindescribed, in combination with ar flexible adjustable Ymeasure.corresponding thereto, thesame beingY made land used inthe manner andfor the purposes hereindescribed.

y CHARLES LUCAS.Y

Vlvitnesse's': j y i JN0. H. .'InwrBERLAKE,fl

THos.. J. WERTENBAKER.

The dil

